A weekend in the City of Dreaming Spires
Good day! I just got back from a weekend in Oxford, at the University. It was incredible! My favorite thing about the trip so far. We got down there on Friday and stayed at Balliol College (the University is made up of 39 colleges!). Balliol was founded in 1263! It's amazing for Americans to see things that old, because we don't have any! It was so pretty, all stone buildings, big rounded wooden doors, and little gardens that reminded me of the Secret Garden book. There were trees and flowering bushes, and really green grass. We each got our own room in a little tower.
At night we had a speaker who was an old teaching fellow of Dr. Hatcher. He talked to us about the college and about India, Imperialism, and the book we've been reading in class. It was interesting to get a little different perspective on the book and things than we've gotten in class. It wasn't very long or intense, though. Pat was the only one who really asked questions because he's the only one who knows a lot about Indian studies. It's actually kind of funny, sometimes when we talk about Indians, I have to remind myself we're not talking about native Americans. Haha. Way to be a typical American. It's been interesting to read and hear about people who feel America needs to be warned about the way we're interacting with the world. The book we read, Niall Ferguson's "Empire", is mainly about the rise and fall of the British Empire, its effect on the world, and what lessons can be learned from it. In the introduction, it mentioned America being referred to as "an empire in denial". It's also interesting to hear people talk about Bush and the presidential election, though I don't completely understand the common foreign opinions yet. It looks like Blair is under some scrutiny lately too. I don't watch the news, and I'm often too late to get the free newspaper, so my knowledge is mostly from glimpses of other people's newspapers over their shoulders on the tube. But it is interesting to be exposed to new ideas and views about the US, at least new to me.
Anyway... back to Oxford! After the talk, we went to have dinner at The Crown pub (where Othello was first performed), but the kitchen was closed, so we went to The Beefeater. I had chicken strips (the best I've ever had) and chips (fries). Yummm. Then we got ice cream at a little ice cream parlour. My cone of chocolate was huge, rich, and creamy. I kept licking and licking and it wasn't getting any smaller! Those of us who didn't want to spend the night drinking hung out in Jon's room (he had a big one), and somehow we ended up playing baseball with a crumpled up plastic bag as the ball and our arms as bats. The four corners of the room were the bases, but Jen D. liked to make up her own rules and run to 3rd first, and insist she wasn't out when she was. It was Jen's version of baseball! That turned into a game of horse with the garbage can as the net, and then Jon, Sam and I stayed up talking until 4 am! That's late, especially when breakfast is at 8! We had breakfast in the hall of the Balliol, which looked like a smaller version of the great hall in Harry Potter. It was really cool. Actually, the h.p. great hall, among other things from the movie, was filmed at Oxford! We didn't get to see it, but I saw where Harry's bed was when he was in the infermary in the first movie. Kind of neat. The buildings were all beautiful and looked almost like Hogwarts if you can picture that. And with 39 colleges (though they are each small), you can imagine what it would look like to have that many beautiful old buildings in one place. One of the requirements for the trip was that we take a walking tour of the college, and I'm really glad we did. We definitely didn't see everything, but we were able to go into a few of the colleges, which most visitors usually aren't allowed to do. Each college pretty much had buildings that were connected to form a square if you're looking from an arial view, and they had gardens in the middle. Some had flowers and some were just grass, but they were true quadrangles. I liked it. Each college has a chapel, a dining hall, residential rooms, and a quad, I think. On some of the buildings around Oxford there are little faces that look like gargoyles, and each one has a different facial expression. It's really funny. I don't know how to describe everything we saw on the tour, but it was all big and magnificent looking. It feels like you've stepped into the past, and it feels like an old, well-known college in England should! There are a lot of things about it that make it a place I would love to study at, and it sort of makes me want to look into their graduate programs. But there are also some things that would be very different and difficult. It is intense, I'm sure, to study there, and hard to get in. Most people don't have regular classes, just one hour a week with their tutor who gives them assignments and discusses their work with them. I was told it's a learn-by-writing approach, which sounds like it may also be a teach-yourself approach, which I have trouble with, as you read from my last entry (I've calmed down a bit about that class, f.i.y. Just needed to vent!) But it is definitely fun to picture myself living there! We'll see what happens after graduation (which is only 3 semesters away!!!) Oh, by the way, to attend Oxford as an undergrad and with living expenses and everything, I was told it costs about £17,000 for people outside the European Union, which is about $31,000. The cost of IWU! The tour guide said that Americans are the only ones whose jaws don't drop at the cost, because our private universities are so expensive. I could be going to Oxford! :)
One of the well-known buildings at Oxford is the Church of St. Mary the Virgin, which has a tall tower that you can climb up for £1.50, and Jen and I did! We went up a veeery narrow, steep stone stairway that was barely wide enough for one person to go up, but some people were also coming down! So we had to climb onto a little ledge with an open slit looking out over the city, and once Jen and I both had to get onto the same one to let people by. So, there we were on a little ledge in a tall stone spiral stairwell, with me pressed up against the wall and hanging onto Jen so she didnt fall backwards down the stairs, both of us squooshed together and looking through the little slit in the stone over Oxford. It was kinda scary and kinda fun. We got to the top and there was a ledge almost all the way around the top of the square tower, with a stone rail so you didn't fall. We could see the whole University and the fields beyond it. It was amazing. We definitely got some pictures, so you can all see what it looked like from up there (and a scary close up of my head with the top of the tower behind me- yikes!). Then we went to the front section of the Oxford Botannical Gardens and got some more beautiful pictures. Along the way we saw two rugby matches going on in a field with some of those old buildings in the background, and a meadow behind us. It was unreal! Sorry for the Harry Potter references, but I felt like I was at a place like Hogwarts, with a bit of a Jane Austen feel to it too. It was majestic, I think that's a good word to describe it.
The other requirement was to go to either the Ashmolean or the Pitt Rivers museum. I went to the Ashmolean, a museum of Art and Archaeology. I didn't make it around to see everything, and I missed some paintings by some great artists we've been learning about in Art class, but I did look at the Asian Art section. We needed to find something we could talk or write about that relates to British Imperialism and/or South Asia, which we've been learning about in Dr. Hatcher's class. I found a stone carving of the Vishnu which is thought to be the first Indian piece to enter a Western museum. And it was brought to England by one of the governors of the East India Company, which we've learned about in class. So it was very relevant to the Empire book. Another cool thing was when Pat and I saw an Indian woman with her two children. They were looking at little brass toy soldiers from India, and she was telling them that that is where their grandfather was from. It was the perfect picture of where the Empire has brought Britain, in terms of the South Asian presence, to see second- and third-generation Indian immigrants in a museum in England, looking at an exhibit of objects from India brought over by English colonizers. The people and the situation, more than the exhibit, ended up demonstrating the things Dr. Hatcher wanted us to learn. So that was neat.
After the museum, we all went to dinner at Shay and Bruce Mason's house. We didn't know them, but Shay went to IWU and they both moved here in July to study at Oxford. They had emailed us inviting us to dinner, so we went, and it was really nice. It was good to be in someone's home, instead of the flat, and Jen, Jon and I had a really good conversation with Bruce. They had two little kids, and their daugher Abigail gave me a picture she drew of an alien named John. It was so cute! It was definitely good to spend time with them and to be with other Americans. I went to bed pretty soon after that, having been going on 3.5 hours of sleep all day.
In the morning, Jen and I went with Jon to a church he thought was Lutheran because he's been looking for one in England, but it turned out that there is just a Lutheran service once a month, and it wasn't today. It was Anglican (actually the church Jen and I climbed to the top of!), and it was interesting to see what that was like. I don't know about their specific beliefs, but the service was very similar to Catholic, and I knew most of the prayers and responses, and sometimes what the reverend was going to say next. The differences I noticed from Catholicism were a communion rail (which I've seen in Lutheran churches, though maybe some Catholic churches have them, I don't know), not believing in the physical presence of Christ in the communion, it being open to "anyone who seeks to follow Christ", and two female reverends, who seemed to be sort of assistants to the male reverend. It felt neat to be in an Anglican church in a beautiful building and aware that I was in Oxford and in England. Sometimes it doesn't particularly feel like I am in another country, but right then it did. One of the women who gave the sermon seemed very educated and knew a lot of detailed background information about the passage we read. That was kind of cool.
So, after a stop at McDonalds (yes, we're still American!), we made our way back to the train station, only to find out that all trains to London were cancelled! They had arrangements for buses instead, so we took a bus to Reading and then got on the train there. I ended up appreciating the detour, because I got to see some beautiful English countryside that was difficult to see from the train. And now we are back in London! It felt strange to be coming "home" to London!
Well, I better stop before your eyes get tired from reading. And my essay is probably not going to write itself, I'm afraid. I just wanted to tell you about my weekend in Oxford because I loved it so much. I don't know if I would say it's my favorite place in the world, but I definitely fell in love with it and it was my favorite thing about this trip so far! Can't wait to show you pictures!
Cheers!
~Jen
Amor Vincit Omnia. (Love conquers all.)